Spaghetti with tomato sauce is a universally recognized dish, and you’ve probably tried your hand at making it. It’s a straightforward process: boil the spaghetti and add the tomato sauce. Perhaps you’ve even experimented with some of the best commercial tomato sauce brands. But have you ever stopped to wonder about the story behind each bottle or jar of tomato sauce?
Join me on a journey to the picturesque south of Italy. Imagine a quaint countryside village on a scorching summer day, echoing with the cries of “pomodori” (tomatoes). It’s late summer, the perfect time to prepare the “conserva,” the bottled tomato sauce that will sustain families through the upcoming winter.
Tomato sauce making involves the whole family
This process involves the entire family, starting with mom and dad carefully selecting the best tomato vendor. Negotiations for the best deal with the itinerant dealer who travels from village to village selling local produce are all part of the experience.
Once the tomatoes are chosen, hefty crates of them are transported to a designated spot. The location is often the family’s garage, which has been meticulously cleaned and emptied to accommodate this temporary family-run operation.
The process is a swift one, lasting only a day or two, as the tomatoes must be processed quickly to prevent spoilage.
…even children are employed
The chosen day begins at the crack of dawn, around 5 a.m.. The entire family, including the children, actively participates. Each task must be carried out simultaneously, efficiently, and with great care.
Grandma takes charge of selecting the finest tomatoes, discarding the spoiled ones. She also trims those that are still salvageable, all while muttering curses at the unscrupulous seller. The children take the selected tomatoes from grandma, place them into large buckets of water, and start washing them. This is undoubtedly the most enjoyable part of the entire process. But it’s a privilege that ends with some disappointment once you turn 13 and are assigned to more demanding tasks.
By this point, it’s already 10 a.m., and the backyard is abuzz with laughter, conversation, splashing, and jovial shouts. You’ve likely had homemade biscuits or a slice of cake for breakfast. But there’s always time for a brief respite and a few sweet treats.
In the meantime, Mom and Dad have meticulously washed bottles, jars, lids, and fresh basil, which will adorn each container. Dad takes a mid-morning break to visit the local bakery and procure bread and focaccia, with the inviting aroma announcing his return to the courtyard.
The recipe for spaghetti sauce is quite easy
Now it’s time to boil the tomatoes and pass them through the press. Once collected in large bowls, mom adds salt and basil to quickly fill the bottles with the freshly obtained sauce.
Grandpa takes on the role of the fire manager. He oversees the boiling of jars and bottles in massive tanks, typically fueled by a wood fire.
By 1 p.m., Grandma prepares lunch – a generous serving of spaghetti for everyone, using the sauce mom extracted near the press.
Lunch is usually served around 2 p.m. Afterward, children are given some rest or playtime, while the rest of the family continues working until sunset. Dad and Grandpa are typically the last to finish as they must tend to the fire and store all the containers in a cool place.
And spaghetti sauce for lunch becomes the most delicious break
Back in the day, a plate of “spaghetti al pomodoro” felt like the most delicious meal in the world. And it was because it was a creation of me and my family. It filled me with immense pride. Here’s a simplified version of the recipe, and if you choose the right ingredients, the result will be equally delightful. But before taking that first bite, please take a moment to close your eyes. Now journey back in time and space, and meet the people who have perpetuated this simple yet extraordinary tradition.
So, if you are visiting Italy, maybe Basilicata or Puglia, have a look and pay attention to people working around a garage… an amazing tradition is taking place.
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